Meanwhile,
having bought the best, strong-flavoured greens that your market
offers- collard, mustard, Broccoli leaves- cut them into pieces
as small as you are inclined (the finer the texture, the better
the pasta coverage, a point contested in much of the Salento).
Wash these very, very well, soaking them if need by.
Return
to your ball. With clean hands begin by squashing your ball
on one side until you form a point, applying your body’s
weight while rolling it. Continue rolling the point until it
becomes a dowel. Roll the dowel until a long strain of dough-
pinkie-thin- extends out from the side of the ball, perhaps
an arm’s length long. Using a non-serrated butter knife,
cut the tip of the pinkie-dowel into a first-pinkie-knuckle
sized piece. With the knife parallel to your torso, squash
this little ball towards your body, nearly smearing it into
the tabletop. It should form almost half a peanut shell shape.
Put the knife down. Invert the little shape by turning it inside
out, until the form is exactly that of an un-extended condom
(circular, thicker towards the edges, thinnest in the centre).
The degree of your smear, the water to flour content, and to
a lesser degree, the surface of the table, should work together
to form a textured surface across the top of your orrechiette.
This surface holds the sauce. Don’t be discouraged. It’s
trickiest shape to make, and a skill you’ll treasure
for as long you eat pasta. And be certain to keep your first
few each batch, which will dry perfectly, keeping for years.
Track your progress. Make them three times and these first
ones will seem made by someone else, such is the curve of learning
fresh pasta.
Place
completed orecchiette on a clean dish down, either in an unmolested
corner, or on a board that can be moved. When you’ve
completed all of your dough, wash up and wait at least a few
hours.
Place
a large pot of water to boil, the same person salting it that
will drop the pasta (a really good habit). In a large, heavy
skillet heat a small glass of good and green olive oil, adding
three to five garlic cloves, cut in half. When these begin
to take on colour, add your greens by the handfuls, careful
not to burn yourself when the rinsing water spatters. Salt
them and cook for ten minutes. Add chilli flakes or a small
torn chilli pepper (wash your hands before going to the bathroom,
especially if you’re male). When the water rolls, have
the salter drop the pasta. After 60 seconds begin tasting.
When still a bit under, drain the ‘little ears’ and
toss them in on top of the greens, coating them as best as
possible. Add another slug of oil, the breadcrumbs and then
pour everything into a big bowl. Open the second bottle. Perhaps
most Pugliese of all, make a point of enjoying the company
of those around the table.
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